An Insider’s Puglia

The deep southern region of Puglia is an area of particular Insider’s expertise.

Here the ancient Appian Way reaches the sea, and crusaders once embarked for the Holy Land.

The landscape feels distinct from the rest of Italy.

Bordered by the pale sands of the Ionian coast and the rugged cliffs of the Adriatic, the region is etched with dry-stone walls, endless olive groves, and baroque towns whose narrow streets and sunlit façades recall the architecture of Greece, Iberia, and North Africa.

Over the centuries, many powers have left their imprint — Byzantines, Normans, Ottomans — and more than five hundred years of Spanish presence continue to shape the culture, language, and cuisine.

Cooking here is succulent year-round, and anyone who has not tried orecchiette con cime di rape, purè di fave con cime di rape, or cime di rape in any form (known as broccoli rabe or rapini in English), grown and cooked in Puglia, has simply not lived.

Outdoor dining and swimming continue well into November — and often later.

Wildflowers, picnics, and coat-free days return early in spring.

Christmas in Puglia is a celebration not to miss. And unlike in many other southern Italian regions, our favorite hotels in Puglia stay open throughout the winter. Restaurant and cafe life are always lively.

For those interested, the region is a stronghold of the “centre-left coalition” led by the progressive Democratic Party (PD), having been governed by the alliance since 2005.

When shall we start planning your travels to Puglia?