Our Neapolitan Master Tailor

In Naples, in a two-room atelier in the heart of the city,  one of the few remaining Neapolitan traditional tailors works away.

He first picked up tailor’s tools, at his father’s side, in 1955.  Every surface in his workroom reflects decades of practice: chalk marks, paper patterns, shears, tape measure, thread, hand iron.

Three silk-covered chairs, one divan, one dressing room, and a very long mirror.

The windows of his studio overlook a florid baroque courtyard, and just beyond that is the frothing energy’ of Naples’centro storico.

Each suit our tailor (sarto in Italian) makes is entirely unique and entirely handmade. “My favorite compliment,” he tells me, “is when a client says, ‘It fits me perfectly. I never want to take it off.’ ’”

Neapolitan men’s tailoring is among the best in the world. Our tailor insists it is the very best, and when I review the jackets awaiting clients for their second fitting, I sincerely tell him I know he is right.

While the basic elements of a suit’s structure are the same everywhere, what sets a Neapolitan tailor apart is the chalk. With it, the tailor draws the curves that give a suit its harmony. Holding that small stone between your fingers and drawing on fabric to create a suit that fits like a second skin is no easy task : it must caress the wearer.

The most challenging part of making a suit is the fitting, when the garment is just basted. The client puts it on in front of a large mirror, and our tailor, using his chalk, does what rulers cannot: he perfects the curves that guide the next steps, employing traditional tools essential in Neapolitan tailoring : ’a mezza luna and ’o ciucciariello. The mezza luna shapes the chest and shoulder blades, while the ciucciariello refines the shoulders.

The jacket’s shoulder, lightly gathered where sleeve meets armhole (spalla camicia), follows the shape of the body without forcing it. Padding is minimal or absent. Many pieces are left unlined, revealing clean internal finishes and reducing unnecessary weight.

“The jacket should never jump forward”, our tailor reminds me.

The front typically features a three-roll-two button arrangement : this is the Neapolitan tradition and allows the lapel to curve naturally. Pockets are practical but never heavy: a slightly arched breast pocket (barchetta) and lower patch pockets that sit plainly on the fabric. Sleeves are attached with a slight ridge of fullness at the seam (mappina), offering texture without ornament. Buttons are selected with meticulous care.

Making trousers requires skill too, says our tailor, “but the jacket is much more complex”.

Fabrics are chosen for both climate and purpose: cotton, linen, and fine wools that age beautifully.

Most materials come from England, though Italian fabrics are also used, especially from Vitale Barberis Canonico, a historic mill in Piedmont founded in 1663. The cut prioritizes ease of movement, with high armholes and a gently shaped waist. Nothing is ever exaggerated.

Our tailor tells me whom he has made jackets for over the past few years, and my ears practically pop.

Then, with visible pleasure, he mentions one of our recent clients and recounts the Harris Tweed suit he made for him. The client sent a thank-you letter once home, expressing his delight, and immediately ordered four more suits.

“He told me he used to wear only Brunello Cucinelli,” the tailor adds, “but now — per l’amor di Dio, with all due respect for another professional in my field — he wouldn’t even consider it.”

Our sarto makes only gentlemen’s clothing. “It’s far easier,” he says, “more straightforward. Women bring their mothers, then their friends, then their sisters … ooofa, too much talking! Besides, this is what my father did, and what he taught me.”

Two visits are all it takes : one for the first fitting, another for perfection. We’ll coordinate everything.

When those visits bring you to Naples, they’re a pleasure, not an errand. Begin your Insider’s Italy travels here and return for your final fitting at journey’s end. As always, we’ll design extraordinary days for you, tailor-made around your interests and our most exceptional discoveries.

Gentlemen, isn’t it time to rediscover the art of dressing well? When may we introduce you to our tailor?

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